1940s WWII German Officers Horsehide Leather Trench Coat

Private purchase leather coats formed an important part of German officer dress during the early years of the Second World War. While regulations governed standard issue uniforms, officers were expected to acquire many items independently, often commissioning garments that offered higher material quality and more refined construction than issued equivalents. Leather trench coats such as this were selected for their authority, durability, and protection, and appear frequently in period photographs of senior officers and naval personnel.

This trench coat dates to the early war period, circa 1940, and reflects the type of privately purchased outerwear associated with officer rank, including Oberleutnant. The design follows established Ledermantel conventions, with a longline silhouette, controlled proportions, and disciplined detailing. Garments of this type were produced by specialist workshops supplying the officer and naval markets, where quality of material and finish was prioritised over standardisation.

The coat is constructed from dark brown horsehide, cut in multiple panels to provide structure and movement. The leather remains dense and substantial, with the weight and firmness expected of early 1940s horsehide. Over time, it has developed a settled patina, with light abrasions and surface wear consistent with age, while retaining its strength and presence throughout. A double rear yoke reinforces the upper back and shoulders, contributing both structure and durability.

The design includes a lay-down and stand-up collar, secured at the front by a double buckle fastening stamped Astor, a detail associated with higher quality private purchase garments. A fully adjustable waist belt allows the coat to be drawn in, while an internal body belt helps hold the coat close to the torso when worn. The sleeves are straight cut, finished with epaulette-style cuffs and original football-style buttons, reinforcing the controlled and formal appearance. Two external side pockets with flaps are complemented by internal pockets, maintaining practicality without excess.

Inside, the coat is fully lined in moleskin, a durable and insulating fabric commonly used in higher quality German leather garments of the period. The lining remains clean and intact, showing no damage or structural wear.

The coat has been professionally cleaned and reconditioned using specialist processes appropriate for heritage leather. This work has restored stability and flexibility while preserving the original surface character of the horsehide. No attempt has been made to remove signs of age or alter the coat’s historical integrity.

Condition is excellent vintage. The leather is clean, strong, and supple, with light age-related wear and patina. All components, including buckles, buttons, stitching, and belts, remain present and functional.

Overall, this is a well preserved and historically credible example of an early 1940s German private purchase officer leather trench coat, valued for its materials, construction, and period correctness.

Key Identifying Features

• Early 1940s German private purchase officer leather trench coat
• Heavy duty horsehide construction, approximately 3.9 kg
• Dark brown leather with mature patina
• Double rear yoke and multi-panel construction
• Astor stamped double buckle front fastening
• Fully adjustable external waist belt and internal body belt
• Lay-down and stand-up collar
• Original football-style buttons
• Fully lined in moleskin
• Single rear vent

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest armpit to armpit: 22 inches
• Sleeve length underarm seam to cuff: 17.5 inches
• Sleeve length shoulder seam to cuff: 27 inches
• Shoulders seam to seam: 18.5 inches
• Back length collar seam to hem: 38.5 inches

Best suited to approximately a 38 to 40 inch chest. Please compare with a similar coat for accuracy.