Vintage Schott 184SM A-2 Naked Cowhide Leather Flight Jacket Made in USA

Introduced in 1977, the Schott 184SM became one of the New York maker’s enduring interpretations of the American flight jacket. Inspired by the practical proportions of the wartime A-2 but built for civilian life, it retained the short body, broad shoulders, knitted waist and utility pockets associated with classic aviation clothing, while adding a removable pile collar and zip-out liner that made it considerably more adaptable.

Dating from around the 1990s, this Made in USA example has spent the intervening decades developing the character that makes an older Schott so compelling. Cut from substantial dark brown naked cowhide, the leather now carries a beautifully storied patina across virtually every panel. Areas of deeper brown sit alongside warmer chestnut, tobacco and russet tones, particularly around the shoulders, sleeves, pocket edges, seams and lower back. The grain has opened naturally with age, while softened edges and surface variation record years of genuine wear.

The removable dark brown pile collar gives the jacket much of its cold-weather presence. It sits over the leather turn-down collar and can be removed completely when a cleaner A-2-inspired profile is preferred. Inside, the original zip-out brown pile body liner also remains with the jacket, together with the contrasting gold-toned sleeve lining. With both removable components still present, the jacket retains the versatile configuration that helped make the 184SM such a practical design.

Across the front are two large leather patch pockets with shaped snap-fastened flaps and side-entry hand-warmer access. Schott-branded snaps remain in place, while shoulder epaulettes and the leather storm flap reinforce the jacket’s American aviation influence. Deep knitted cuffs and waistband draw the substantial cowhide inward at the wrists and waist, creating the compact silhouette characteristic of the design.

The broad rear panels show the ageing of the naked cowhide particularly well. Tonal changes move naturally through dark brown, chestnut and warmer tobacco shades, with the grain and surface character varying from one section of hide to another. It is the sort of patina that comes only with time, giving the jacket individuality without compromising the strength of the leather beneath.

What makes this example particularly appealing is the balance between age and preservation. The cowhide remains substantial, the original removable collar and liner have stayed with the jacket, and decades of wear have given the leather a depth that belongs entirely to its history. It is an exceptionally well-preserved example of one of Schott’s most enduring American flight jackets.

Condition & Restoration

Excellent vintage condition.

The naked cowhide remains strong, substantial and structurally sound throughout, with a beautifully developed natural patina. The original dark brown surface displays genuine grain, rubbing, softened edges and extensive tonal variation, with warmer chestnut, tobacco and russet tones emerging naturally through decades of wear.

The original removable pile collar and zip-out pile body liner are both present and remain very well preserved. The contrasting sleeve lining is also in excellent vintage condition.

The jacket has been specialist cleaned and conditioned in-house, with care taken to preserve the established surface character and natural patina of the naked cowhide. As part of the restoration, the leather has also been carefully reshaped to reduce undesirable set-in creasing caused by prolonged wear and storage, restoring a more natural structure and drape without altering the jacket’s original construction or removing the character of the hide.

The original main zipper has been refurbished, cleaned, waxed and polished and operates smoothly. The remaining hardware has also been carefully cleaned while retaining its naturally aged finish.

The original knitted cuffs and waistband have been refurbished to improve their shape and presentation while preserving the original material. Both remain strong and present extremely well for the jacket’s age.

Key Features

• Circa 1990s
• Schott 184SM
• A-2-inspired civilian flight jacket
• Made in USA
• Tagged Size 46
• Original Schott N.Y.C. label
• Substantial naked cowhide leather
• Dark brown base colour
• Chestnut, tobacco and russet tonal variation from genuine wear
• Beautifully storied natural patina
• Removable dark brown pile collar
• Leather turn-down collar beneath
• Original zip-out brown pile body liner
• Contrasting gold-toned sleeve lining
• Shoulder epaulettes
• Central metal zipper
• Leather storm flap
• Two large front patch pockets
• Shaped snap-fastened pocket flaps
• Side-entry hand-warmer pockets
• Schott-branded snap hardware
• Broad panelled back
• Knitted cuffs and waistband
• Original removable components retained
• Excellent vintage condition

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 25 inches
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 21 inches
• Shoulder to cuff: 27 inches
• Underarm to cuff: 19 inches
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 25.5 inches

Tagged Size 46. (XL)

For the best indication of fit, please compare the measurements above with a similar jacket you already own.