Vintage 1950s Italian Police Motoring Coat, Goatskin, Knitted Wool Collar

Made in Italy by Confezioni CAF in the 1950s or 1960s, this double-breasted goatskin motoring coat is cut in the pattern of the heavy leather coats worn by Italy's police on the road. It has one detail rarely seen on coats of its kind: a thick collar of hand-knitted black wool.

The best known of those services are the Carabinieri, among the oldest police forces in Europe. They were founded on 13 July 1814 by King Victor Emmanuel I of Sardinia, modelled on the French gendarmerie, and named for the carbine they carried. In 1861 they became the First Force of the newly unified Italian army. In the post-war years, as Italy rebuilt and took to the new autostrade, riders of the Carabinieri and the Polizia Stradale, the highway police, wore long leather coats like this one on motorcycle patrol and traffic duty. They were double-breasted against the wind, belted at the waist, and cut with raglan sleeves so the arms moved freely on a motorcycle or behind a wheel. Italian makers such as Confezioni CAF, whose name simply means "CAF Garments", supplied this pattern to private buyers as well as the services, and officers were often permitted to buy their own versions from specialist makers.

The goatskin is the heart of this coat. Goat was prized for outerwear because it pairs real strength with a close, supple grain that softens beautifully with age, and decades of wear have given this one an outstanding patina. The original black has worn through to rich brown across the shoulders, down the sleeves and along the hem, and every seam, edge and crease is traced in warmer tones. Across the back, the pebbled grain has taken on a deep, glassy lustre that only genuine wear can create.

The construction follows the service pattern closely. The front closes double-breasted with six original domed buttons, each scored with a woven cross. The collar can be worn open with the lapels turned back or closed high at the throat. A wide goatskin belt with raised stitched ridges runs through keepers and a rear loop to a squared buckle, and buttoned straps close the cuffs against the cold. Slanted hand pockets sit in the front panels, and piped seams run the length of the raglan sleeves.

The collar is what sets it apart. Instead of plain leather or fur, it is faced in dense black knitted wool, soft against the neck and far warmer when turned up on the road. Inside, the coat is lined throughout in tan wool, with a black cotton sleeve lining, a leather-trimmed welt pocket at the chest and a row of steel press studs along the facings. The Confezioni CAF shield label sits between the shoulders, marked size 54.

An Italian coat of real character, with a patina worth every mile of its life.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for its age.

The goatskin is strong and supple, with natural creasing, rubbing and the extensive tonal variation described above, particularly across the shoulders, sleeves and hem. The knitted wool collar is full and intact. All original buttons are present, along with the belt, buckle and cuff straps. The wool lining is complete and sound, with some light marks consistent with age.

Professionally cleaned and conditioned in-house, using our own Heritage Leather Conditioner from the Workshop Blends range, with its outstanding natural patina left fully intact.

Key Features

• Vintage 1950s–60s Italian police-pattern motoring coat
• Made by Confezioni CAF, with original shield label, size 54
• Cut in the pattern worn by the Carabinieri and Polizia Stradale
• Rare knitted black wool collar
• Pebble-grained goatskin with an outstanding black-to-brown patina
• Double-breasted front with six original domed buttons
• Raglan sleeves with piped seams
• Full goatskin belt with stitched ridges and squared buckle
• Buttoned cuff straps
• Two slanted hand pockets
• Full tan wool lining
• Leather-trimmed inside chest pocket
• Steel press studs to the facings

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 24" / 61 cm
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 21" / 53.5 cm
• Sleeve, side of neck to cuff (raglan): 31" / 78.5 cm
• Underarm seam to cuff: 17.5" / 44.5 cm
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 32" / 81.5 cm

Best suited to: 44" chest / Size Large

Fit: A straight cut made to be worn over layers, with raglan sleeves that give easy movement through the shoulders. It will suit a 44" chest, or a 42" chest with a looser, more relaxed fit. 

For the best indication of sizing, please compare the measurements above with a similar coat you already own. For any sizing questions, please get in touch.