Vintage 1950s Haelson German Horsehide Leather Motorcycle Jacket

This is a vintage German motorcycle jacket by Haelson, cut from horsehide in the classic offset-zip pattern. Collectors generally date Haelson jackets of this kind to the 1950s and 60s, and the maker was well regarded in Germany for its motorcycle gear. It has the details that mark out a proper riding jacket: a diagonal front zip, a gathered waist across the back, a piped yoke and a belt.

The cut is built around the bike. The front zip runs on the diagonal and sits well to one side, so when it is closed the leather lies double across the chest, where the wind hits hardest. Across the small of the back, the hide is gathered into a band of fine pleats. They draw the jacket in at the waist and open out when the rider leans forward over the bars. Both details took the maker hours, and neither is there for show.

The leather is dense and hard-wearing. Years of use have set it into deep creases across the chest, sleeves and back, the kind that only come from time on the road. The colour has settled into a deep brown, with the pebbled grain showing lighter at the folds and seam edges. Horsehide was the choice for motorcycle jackets because it is tougher than cowhide and moulds to the wearer over time.

Unzipped, the collar falls open into wide lapels. A shaped yoke runs across the shoulders, edged in a fine line of piping. A long upright zip pocket sits high on the chest, with two slanted zip pockets below the belt. The belt fastens with a metal buckle and leather keeper, and buttoned tabs close the cuffs over a pair of gloves.

At some point in its working life the jacket was mended at the back of the left shoulder, under the left arm and on the lining under the right arm. The work is neat enough that you have to look for it. The repairs date from a time when a good jacket was mended rather than replaced, so they have been left as they are. The zip pulls are a mix of period pulls, with the original still in place.

Inside, the body is lined in olive-brown cotton moleskin and the sleeves in navy cotton. There is a leather-edged inside pocket with a button tab, a leather hanging loop at the collar, and the maker’s label, faded with age.

A Haelson jacket that was worn hard, cared for, and is still ready for the road.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for its age.

The hide is strong and sound, with a rich, even patina. The creasing and the lighter grain at the folds are part of the jacket’s character, not damage.

The old repairs described above are skilfully done and have been deliberately left in place. All zips run smoothly, and the belt, buckle and cuff tabs fasten as they should. The gathered back waist, yoke and piping are intact. The moleskin and cotton linings are whole, with no tears or holes. The maker’s label is faded and the hanging loop is worn but holding.

Professionally cleaned and dressed in-house using our own Workshop Blends, with the leather left soft and supple and its natural character intact.

All photographs show the actual jacket for sale and form an important part of the condition description.

Key Features

• Vintage German horsehide motorcycle jacket by Haelson
• Diagonal offset front zip; wear it open with wide lapels or closed to the collar
• Gathered leather waist panel across the back
• Shaped back yoke with fine piping
• Belt with metal buckle and leather keeper
• Long zipped chest pocket and two slanted zipped hand pockets
• Buttoned cuff tabs
• Olive-brown cotton moleskin body lining, navy cotton sleeve linings
• Leather-edged inside pocket with button tab
• Original maker’s label and leather hanging loop
• Old period repairs, left intact
• Very good vintage condition

Size & Fit

All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat.

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 22" / 56 cm
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 18.5" / 47 cm
• Sleeve, shoulder seam to cuff: 25" / 63.5 cm
• Underarm seam to cuff: 18" / 45.5 cm
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 25.5" / 65 cm

Best suited to: 40" chest, regular / Size Small to Medium

Fit: The label reads 52 in European sizing, but the jacket measures almost exactly like a modern Schott Perfecto in a 40, with a little more length in the body. It fits a 40" chest with room for layering and sits close on a 42", the way a riding jacket should on the bike.

For the best indication of sizing, please compare the measurements above with a similar jacket you already own. For any sizing questions, please get in touch.