Vintage 1980s Kudsak Calfskin Trucker Jacket, Made in France

“The patina of time will ennoble its appearance.” Kudsak printed that promise on the label inside this jacket, and decades later it has kept its word.

The leather is what makes it special. It’s a fine calfskin that Kudsak called “cuir buc buc”, described on the label as specially created and developed for the house, and made to age rather than simply wear. That is exactly what it has done. Years of wear have burnished it to a deep, glowing sheen, the “worn and aged” look Kudsak told its owners they would love. It’s incredibly soft and supple, and it drapes and moves with you rather than holding a stiff shape. The patina is outstanding. Across the body it’s a rich chestnut brown, lifting to russet and tan on the shoulders, yoke and sleeve tops, with natural creasing that follows every movement.

The shape is pure Americana. The trucker jacket grew out of American workwear, worn by cowboys, ranch hands and railroad men, and Levi’s gave it its definitive form with the Type III in 1962. It was cut short in the body for a reason. A jacket that stopped at the belt wouldn’t bunch in the saddle, catch on a tool belt or ride up when its wearer bent to work. Kudsak took that pattern and reimagined it in France in calfskin. There’s a pointed front yoke with pleats running down to the waist, two chest pockets under pointed button flaps, and slim welt pockets set low on the body for the hands. The shoulders drop easily, the sleeves are full, and button tabs at each side of the waistband draw it in. The metal buttons carry an embossed star and laurel design, and some have taken on a soft verdigris tint with age.

The labels are still in place inside, over a quilted 100% cotton lining. A Western saddle and steer skull sit on the “Kudsak on Started – Harmony & Quality” patch, a nod to the jacket’s cowboy roots. It’s mounted on a pinked leather backing beneath “Made in France” and “Modèle Déposé”, the French mark for a registered design. The woven care label still carries Kudsak’s instructions in full.

Kudsak was a small French house, and its jackets seldom surface outside France. Fewer still come with the leather this well aged and every original label intact.

A French jacket that dreamed of the American West, and has the patina to prove it.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition.

The calfskin is soft and supple, with a stunning, even patina and natural creasing throughout. There are no tears or holes. The original buttons are intact, with natural age toning. One button on a waist adjuster tab has been replaced with a closely matched button. The quilted cotton lining shows light wear consistent with age but remains in very good condition, and all the original labels are in place.

The jacket has been specialist cleaned in-house, and its natural character has been carefully preserved.

Key Features

• Vintage Kudsak leather trucker jacket, c. late 1980s–early 1990s
• Made in France, Modèle Déposé
• A small French label, seldom seen outside France
• Soft calfskin, Kudsak’s own “cuir buc buc”, burnished with age
• Rich chestnut brown patina with russet and tan highlights
• Americana trucker styling with pointed front yoke and pleats
• Two chest pockets with pointed button flaps
• Welt hand-warmer pockets
• Button waist adjuster tabs at each side
• Button cuffs
• Embossed star and laurel metal buttons
• Dropped shoulders, short trucker-length body
• Quilted 100% cotton lining with inside pocket
• Original “Kudsak on Started – Harmony & Quality” Western label
• Label size XL

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 25" / 63.5 cm
• Shoulders, approx. width: 22" / 55.9 cm
• Sleeve length, shoulder seam to cuff: 22" / 55.9 cm
• Sleeve length, underarm seam to cuff: 19" / 48.3 cm
• Back length, collar seam to bottom hem: 22.5" / 57.2 cm

Best suited to:

46 Regular (XL)

Fit: Cut short in the body, as a classic trucker jacket should be. It sits just above the belt line, true to the original pattern, with dropped shoulders and button tabs at each side to draw in the waist.