Vintage 1980s Schott 184SM Naked Cowhide A-2 Flight Jacket Made in USA

The Schott 184SM belongs to the American tradition of civilian leather flight jackets that evolved from military aviation clothing. Drawing heavily on the proportions and practical character of the A-2, the 184SM combines a compact blouson silhouette with the substantial construction for which Schott's American-made leather jackets became known.

Dating to approximately the late 1980s, this example is constructed from Schott's naked cowhide and retains its original 184SM identification label. The design incorporates a broad leather turn-down collar, shoulder epaulettes and large front patch pockets with shaped snap-fastening flaps and separate side-entry hand pockets. Knitted cuffs and waistband complete the familiar flight-jacket profile.

This particular jacket was chosen for its exceptional natural patina and character. Decades of genuine wear have transformed the original black cowhide, creating a complex surface of charcoal, softened brown and tobacco-toned variation. The shoulders, sleeves, pocket edges, seams and back have each aged differently, leaving pronounced grain, creasing, rubbing and individual markings across the hide.

The effect is especially striking across the shoulders and sleeves, where years of use have gradually worn and softened areas of the original black finish, contrasting against the darker sections that have received less wear. Across the back, broader areas of tonal variation give the leather considerable depth and make the history of the jacket immediately apparent.

There is nothing artificial about this surface. The softened edges, exposed undertones and changes in colour have developed naturally through decades of genuine wear. It is precisely this irregularity that gives the jacket its appeal and separates naturally aged vintage leather from a modern jacket manufactured to appear worn.

Importantly, the cowhide retains a firm, substantial handle. Combined with the established patina, original details and classic Schott construction, it gives this late 1980s 184SM the unmistakable character of a jacket that has been genuinely worn and matured over time.

Condition & Preservation

Very good vintage condition.

The black naked cowhide remains strong, firm and structurally sound, retaining a substantial handle. The extensive natural patina includes pronounced grain, creasing, rubbing, softened areas of colour and numerous small age and wear markings. Brown, charcoal and tobacco-toned undertones have become visible in areas where the original black surface has naturally worn over time. These are genuine characteristics acquired through use and form an important part of the jacket's appearance.

The jacket has been professionally cleaned and subsequently conditioned in-house using our Heritage Conditioner. Particular care was taken to replenish the aged leather while retaining its naturally firm character and preserving the established patina. No attempt has been made to recolour or homogenise the surface.

The original zipper has been refurbished, cleaned, waxed and polished and operates smoothly. All remaining hardware has also been carefully cleaned. The original knitted cuffs and waistband have been refurbished and remain strong and serviceable.

The interior lining remains in good vintage condition. There are a couple of very small, discreet stitch repairs towards the lower section of the lining. These are minor and do not affect the structure or use of the jacket.

Overall, a very good and highly characterful vintage Schott 184SM, retaining the genuine markings and surface variation that make this particular example so distinctive.

Key Features

• Circa late 1980s Schott 184SM
• Made in USA
• Schott naked cowhide leather
• Black colour
• Firm, substantial leather handle
• Exceptional naturally developed patina
• Charcoal, brown and tobacco-toned surface variation
• Pronounced natural grain and creasing
• Genuine age-developed markings
• A-2 inspired civilian flight jacket
• Broad leather turn-down collar
• Shoulder epaulettes
• Large front patch pockets
• Shaped snap-fastening pocket flaps
• Side-entry hand pockets
• Original knitted cuffs and waistband
• Original Schott hardware
• Original 184SM identification label
• Tagged Size 46
• Very good vintage condition

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 26"
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 22"
• Sleeve, shoulder seam to cuff: 26"
• Sleeve, underarm seam to cuff: 19"
• Back length, collar seam to bottom waistband: 25.5"

Tagged Size: 46, XL

Please compare these measurements against a similar garment you own to confirm fit before purchasing.