Vintage 1980s Schott 141 Café Racer – Brown Naked Cowhide, IDEAL Brass Zips

The age of this jacket is in its zip. The solid brass IDEAL on the front, stamped on a stippled pull, comes from before Schott switched to nickel, and it marks this 141 café racer as one of their older New York-made pieces.

The naked cowhide has done exactly what it should. With no heavy coat on the surface, it has deepened to a dark chocolate across the body and worn to honey along the zip, pocket edges, collar and cuffs. The grain still shows, the creases at the elbows have softened into the hide, and it has the kind of sheen that only years of wear can give.

Everything about it is built for the bike. The cuffs zip closed over gloves. The chest pocket has a brass ring pull on a short chain that you can find without looking. The band collar snaps flat, the side buckles draw the waist in, and action-back pleats open across the shoulders as you reach for the bars.

The shape began with British riders racing stripped-down bikes between transport cafés, where a belted biker jacket with wide lapels was more than anyone needed at speed. Schott, making leather in New York since 1913, answered in 1956 with a “Leather Racing Shirt”, sold through Beck for $28.95. The 141 follows the same thinking: nothing to flap, nothing to catch the wind.

Inside, the original tag is stamped 141, and the care label sends the first owner to Leathercraft Process, a Manhattan leather specialist since 1938. It’s a small piece of New York sewn into the lining.

Condition & Restoration

Specialist cleaned and conditioned in-house. The cowhide is soft and supple, with a rich, even patina and natural creasing at the elbows and pocket edges. The stitching is tight and even throughout. The IDEAL brass main zip, the pocket zips and the cuff zips all run smoothly. The snaps close firmly, and the side buckles and straps are complete. The lining is clean and intact.

Key Identifying Features

• Schott style 141 Classic Racer, original white tag stamped 141
• Brown naked cowhide, aniline dyed, with a deep natural patina
• IDEAL solid brass main zip with a stippled pull
• Mandarin band collar with snap tab, to stop the collar lifting at speed
• Slanted chest zip pocket with a brass ring pull on a chain
• Two slanted zipped hand pockets with ring pulls, easy to open in gloves
• Zipped cuffs, closed over riding gloves to keep the wind out
• Side adjuster straps with brass buckles, to draw the waist in on the bike
• Action-back pleats behind the shoulders, for reach to the handlebars
• Snaps stamped SCHOTT throughout
• Tan satin lining
• Leathercraft Process, New York, care label
• Made in USA

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 24" / 61 cm
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 21" / 53.3 cm
• Sleeve length, shoulder seam to cuff: 27" / 68.6 cm
• Sleeve length, underarm seam to cuff: 18" / 45.7 cm
• Back length, collar seam to bottom hem: 25" / 63.5 cm

Best suited to

46 Regular (XL)

Fit: Cut in the true café racer way, slim fitting and to be worn close to the body for protection on the bike, with sleeves made for reaching forward.