Vintage 1950s German Cowhide Leather Motorrad Motorcycle Jacket ZIPP

In post-war Germany, the motorcycle occupied a place in everyday life that is difficult to imagine today. It was an affordable alternative to the car, expected to be robust enough for the daily journey to work and capable of carrying its owner much further when required. Smaller machines were routinely pressed into service for heavy loads and long holiday journeys, and motorcycles actually outnumbered passenger cars in West Germany until 1957. German motorcycling also had an established social culture of its own, with organised riders' associations stretching back well before the war.

This jacket belongs to that world, but it is far more elaborate than a simple leather riding coat. Made from heavyweight grained brown leather, it closes high across the chest with an asymmetric front and is drawn firmly around the waist by a full leather belt. Diamond quilting extends across the shoulders and sleeves before appearing again in a broad section across the lower back. Sweeping piped seams shape the rear body towards the waist, producing a compact, purposeful silhouette that makes particular sense when seen as clothing intended to be worn on a motorcycle.

Its extraordinary amount of zipper hardware gives the jacket much of its identity. Four zipped pockets are arranged across the front, with further zipped pockets incorporated directly into the sleeves. These are separate from the long cuff zippers, which open the lower sleeves considerably before allowing them to close closely around the wrists. The asymmetric main fastening retains its original ZIPP zipper teeth. Its original slider was no longer serviceable and has been replaced with a period German RIES example, keeping the repair sympathetic to the age of the jacket.

The leather tells the rest of the story. What would originally have presented as a much more uniform brown has developed into a remarkable mixture of deep brown, oxblood, burgundy, russet and lighter rubbed areas. The change is particularly pronounced across the shoulders, sleeves, collar, pocket edges and belt, with scratches, scuffs and deep creasing throughout. It has plainly seen a great deal of use, yet the leather beneath remains substantial and strong.

Inside is a brown moleskin lining with general age-related wear, localised fraying and several old stitched repairs. These appear to have accumulated during the jacket's working life and have been retained rather than disguised. By the end of the 1950s, increasing prosperity was beginning to put the car within reach of more West German households, and the motorcycle's position as essential everyday transport was starting to disappear. This jacket survives from the period before that change, when motorcycle clothing could still be serious working equipment, and its unusually involved construction makes it a particularly interesting example.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for an original 1950s German motorcycle jacket. The leather remains solid and structurally sound, with the main seams and construction strong.

The brown moleskin lining shows general age-related wear, localised fraying and several longstanding stitched repairs. These remain serviceable, with relatively minor areas of damage considering the age and obvious use of the garment. Please study the photographs carefully for the overall condition.

The jacket has been specialist leather cleaned and conditioned in-house. The damaged original main zipper slider has been replaced with a period German RIES example, while the original ZIPP teeth remain in place. The zipper hardware throughout has been carefully freed, refurbished and waxed for ease of operation. Our restoration has otherwise been deliberately restrained.

Key Features

• Original 1950s German motorcycle jacket
• Heavyweight grained brown leather, believed to be cowhide
• Deep brown, oxblood, burgundy and russet patina
• Asymmetric high-closing front
• Period ZIPP and RIES zipper hardware
• Four zipped front body pockets
• Additional zipped sleeve pockets
• Separate long sleeve-opening cuff zippers
• Substantial pointed collar
• Full leather waist belt
• Diamond-quilted shoulder and sleeve construction
• Broad diamond-quilted lower rear panel
• Sweeping piped rear seams
• Short, shaped riding silhouette
• Brown moleskin lining

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 21"
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 18"
• Shoulder seam to cuff: 25"
• Underarm seam to cuff: 18"
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 25"

Recommended fit: small size, 38 chest.

For the best indication of fit, please compare the measurements above with a similar jacket you already own.