Vintage 1950s French Pompier Fireman Leather Jacket

This jacket comes from a long tradition of French firefighting equipment, produced during a period when protective garments were built with the expectation that they would serve for decades. Known as a pompier coat, this style of leather jacket formed part of the working uniform worn by municipal fire brigades across France throughout the mid twentieth century.

The original maker’s label inside identifies the jacket as a product of Etablissements Desautel Frères of Lyon, a company founded in 1932 that became one of France’s most important suppliers of firefighting equipment. Based at 99 Rue Pierre Corneille in Lyon, Desautel produced a wide range of protective equipment for fire brigades, including the heavy leather coats worn by firefighters throughout the country during the post war years.

Cut from thick black leather, the jacket has the solid, purposeful construction expected of professional service clothing. The hide shows a deep natural patina developed through years of use, with areas of wear and abrasion visible along the sleeves and edges where the leather would have experienced the most contact. These marks are consistent with a working garment and give the jacket a depth of character that cannot be recreated.

The collar carries its original red embroidered insignia and is fitted with a throat latch, allowing the jacket to be secured at the neck when needed. Under the arms are ventilation grommets designed to release heat during physically demanding work. These practical details reflect the functional design approach typical of French service clothing from the period.

Inside, the jacket is lined in a distinctive green, red and black plaid wool lining, a material widely used in French firefighter coats during the 1940s and 1950s for its warmth and durability. The Desautel Frères label remains present together with a small woven size 58 tag, typical of post war French uniform garments.

The leather shows honest signs of age and service with visible patina, abrasions and surface wear throughout, exactly as shown in the photographs. Structurally the jacket remains strong and wearable, with its original construction intact and the leather retaining good substance.

French pompier leather coats were standard issue equipment for much of the twentieth century and examples with their original lining, insignia and maker’s label still present have become increasingly difficult to find. Pieces such as this now stand as striking examples of mid century French service wear and are sought after by collectors of historic uniforms and vintage leather garments.

Key Identifying Features

• Early to mid 1950s French pompier fireman leather jacket
• Produced by Desautel Frères, Lyon
• Heavy black service grade leather hide
• Original firefighter collar insignia with red embroidered detail
• Protective storm front with button closure
• Throat latch at the collar for securing the neck in harsh conditions
• Ventilated underarm grommets for breathability during active duty
• Two angled waist pockets
• Distinctive green, red and black plaid wool lining
• Original Desautel Frères Lyon maker’s label present
• Woven size 58 service tag
• Classic French firefighter service coat cut

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

Chest (Armpit to Armpit): 23 inches
Underarm to Cuff: 15 inches
Shoulder to Cuff: 24 inches
Across Shoulders: 20 inches
Back Length (Bottom of Collar to Hem): 29 inches

Best suited for approximately a 42 inch chest with a Medium frame and shorter fit (42 Short).