Vintage 1940s German Goatskin Leather Officer Trench Coat

Built in the early to mid 1940s, this goatskin trench coat sits firmly within the tradition of privately purchased leather overcoats favoured by Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe officers. These commissioned pieces offered a level of protection, durability and refinement far beyond standard issue wool greatcoats, and were chosen by officers who needed a serious weatherproof garment that still maintained a commanding silhouette. The Ledermantel form, broad lapels and shaped chest yoke align closely with documented wartime officer purchases made outside the government supply system.

The goatskin is full grain and of the quality associated with officer-grade garments of the period. Naturally matured over eight decades, it carries a deep patina with shifting tones of midnight, petrol and green, the result of early aniline dye processes. The hide is lighter and more flexible than horsehide examples from the same era, yet retains excellent structural integrity. The sleeves have softened through long wear, while the body holds a confident shape with organic grain, creasing and tonal variation that reflect the uncorrected finish of genuine wartime goatskin.

Inside, the wool check lining distinguishes this as a private purchase rather than a government issue item. Such patterned linings were reserved for individually commissioned garments, often selected by officers who wanted a warmer, more refined interior than the plain cotton or rayon linings common in standard military supply. It remains clean and structurally sound with only light age-related marks.

A defining detail is the original Gutos Pforzheim buckle fitted to the belt. Produced from the late 1930s through the wartime 1940s, this hardware appears frequently on officer-grade private purchase coats. Its presence, combined with the cut, materials and finishing, places this garment squarely in the wartime private-order category and confirms it as the type worn by officers rather than post-war civilian production.

Cleaned and conditioned in house using our specialist workshop methods, the leather is supple, strong and rich in natural character. Stitching, seams and components are all sound. Overall condition is excellent vintage with no structural issues.

Key Identifying Features

• Full grain goatskin with naturally aged grain, patina and tonal depth
• Blue finish with shifting petrol and green hues typical of 1940s aniline dyes
• Original 1940s Gutos Pforzheim belt buckle used on officer-grade garments
• Wool check lining associated with higher grade private purchase officer coats
• Broad lapels, shaped chest yoke and belted waist
• Adjustable cuff straps with original buttons
• Wartime Ledermantel silhouette widely worn by Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe officers

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 23.5 inches
• Sleeve length (underarm seam to cuff): 17 inches
• Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff): 26.5 inches
• Shoulders (seam to seam): 19.5 inches
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 47.5 inches

Best suited for a medium to large frame, approximately a 42 to 44 inch chest. Please compare with a similar coat for accuracy.

This coat represents a compelling example of wartime German officer private-purchase tailoring, distinguished by its materials, hardware and preserved condition. Its colouration, workmanship and provenance give it significant appeal for collectors and those who appreciate serious mid century craftsmanship.