Vintage 1940s French ‘Canadienne’ Barnstormer Mackinaw Leather Coat

A genuine 1940s French ‘Canadienne’ barnstormer, built as a serious cold-weather garment with the weight, insulation and protective construction associated with this distinctive form of French outerwear. This is an exceptionally heavy example, combining a dense dark brown cowhide shell with its original removable sheepskin wool collar and fully removable mouton lining.

The Canadienne became a familiar form of French cold-weather outerwear during the mid-century period. This double-breasted, wool-collared style is also widely known as the French Barnstormer, drawing its name from the heavy protective coats associated with the growth of aviation and motoring during the interwar years. Variations were produced in both leather and heavy canvas, with the long body, overlapping double-breasted front and insulated construction providing considerable protection from wind and cold.

This example takes that cold-weather construction considerably further. With the removable sheepskin wool collar and mouton liner fitted, it is an exceptionally warm and imposing winter coat. Both can be removed, leaving the heavyweight leather shell to be worn independently and making the garment considerably more adaptable than its appearance initially suggests.

The leather is the defining feature. Cut from exceptionally heavy cowhide, the shell retains remarkable thickness, density and structure. The hide remains firm and solid in hand, with a pronounced natural grain and considerable body throughout. Despite its age, it has not become thin, loose or excessively softened. Structurally, the cowhide is exceptionally well preserved.

The dark brown finish has developed a superb natural patina, with warmer chestnut and russet tones emerging across the shoulders, sleeves, seams, edges and belt. Deep creasing and variations in grain record decades of genuine use, while the underlying hide remains remarkably strong and firm.

The construction is direct and purposeful. The double-breasted front retains its original leather-covered football-style buttons with distinctive cross-stitched detailing, secured through braided leather loops. Pointed western-influenced yokes run across the chest and back, while vertical welt hand pockets, lower flapped pockets, buttoned cuff adjusters and a full leather waist belt with twin metal ring fastening complete the exterior.

The broad genuine sheepskin wool collar is fully removable. The wool remains dense, full and exceptionally well preserved, with its rich brown colour providing a striking contrast against the dark cowhide.

Inside, the original mouton lining is also completely removable. Dense cream mouton provides substantial insulation through the upper body, while the lower section is finished in contrasting teal diamond-quilted fabric. The survival of this original lining is particularly important, both for the completeness of the garment and for the extraordinary level of warmth it provides when fitted.

The removable liner attaches to the shell using original period Vitex metal zip fasteners. Vitex was patented in France in 1925 by the Grenoble-based manufacturer ARaymond and remained in production until 1955, providing a valuable period reference for dating the garment. Combined with the construction, styling and other surviving components, this example is most consistent with 1940s manufacture.

Particularly impressive is how complete the coat remains. Both the removable sheepskin wool collar and mouton lining have survived with the garment, together with the original Vitex hardware, leather-covered buttons, waist belt and cuff adjusters. Removable components are easily separated or lost over many decades, making an example retaining so much of its original construction increasingly difficult to find.

Condition & Preservation

Very good vintage condition throughout and unusually well preserved for a coat of this age.

The exceptionally heavy cowhide remains firm, dense and structurally excellent, retaining substantial thickness, body and pronounced natural grain throughout. There is no structural weakness or excessive softening to the hide.

The surface has developed a superb distressed patina through genuine age and wear. Natural creasing, surface marks and finish wear are present, with warmer chestnut and russet tones emerging through the darker brown finish, particularly around the shoulders, sleeves, seams, edges and other high-contact areas.

These signs of age have deliberately been preserved rather than disguised and give the coat much of its character.

The original leather-covered football-style buttons remain present and in very good order, together with their braided leather loops, full waist belt, twin metal ring fastening and buttoned cuff adjusters.

The removable sheepskin wool collar remains full, dense and very well preserved. The original removable mouton lining is also in very good condition, with the cream mouton retaining excellent density and the teal diamond-quilted lower section presenting extremely well.

The original Vitex zip fastenings securing the removable lining have been carefully refurbished in-house. They have been cleaned, polished and lubricated and operate smoothly while retaining their original period finish and character.

The leather has been specialist cleaned and carefully conditioned in-house. Our approach has been one of preservation, maintaining the exceptional firmness and structure of the hide while protecting its original surface and naturally developed patina.

A rare, remarkably complete and fully wearable example of a 1940s French Canadienne Barnstormer, particularly difficult to find in this condition with its original removable collar, mouton lining and period components still together.

Key Identifying Features

• 1940s French Canadienne Barnstormer coat
• Exceptionally heavy dark brown cowhide
• Firm, dense and highly structured hide
  
• Genuine distressed patina
• Deep brown, chestnut and russet tonal variation
• Removable genuine sheepskin wool collar
• Original removable mouton lining
  
• Teal diamond-quilted lower lining
• Original period Vitex metal zip fastenings
• Vitex liner zips refurbished, polished and lubricated in-house
• Original leather-covered football-style buttons
• Cross-stitched button detailing
• Braided leather button loops
• Long double-breasted construction
• Pointed western-influenced front and rear yokes
• Vertical welt hand pockets
• Lower flapped pockets
• Full leather waist belt
• Twin metal D-ring belt fastening
• Buttoned leather cuffs

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 25"
• Shoulders (seam to seam): 20.5"
• Sleeve length (shoulder to cuff): 26"
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 17.5"
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 33.5"

Approximately a modern Large with the original mouton lining fitted, best suited to around a 42" chest for a comfortable fit or a slim 44" chest for a closer fit. Broader or more athletic 44" builds may find it restrictive across the upper back and shoulders. With the substantial mouton lining removed, the coat gains considerable internal room and fits closer to a modern XL.