Vintage 1940s–50s French Grillon Cognac Sheepskin Workwear Jacket

A genuine mid-century French leather workwear jacket, produced under the Grillon name and carrying the distinctive period label marked “Pluie... Vent... Neige”, translating as “Rain... Wind... Snow.” Dating from around the 1940s to 1950s, it is a beautifully aged example of practical French outerwear, made particularly striking by its cognac cowhide and the patina developed through decades of genuine wear.

The leather is the defining feature. Cut from substantial cognac cowhide, it has developed an exceptionally supple, broken-in handle through many decades of use. Areas that have seen the most movement and contact have become particularly soft, while the hide still retains the strength and substance expected of a working leather jacket from this period.

The original finish has worn naturally across the shoulders, sleeves, seams and edges, revealing warmer caramel and golden tones beneath the deeper cognac brown. Areas of the darker finish remain across the body, creating a remarkable depth and variation in colour that could only have developed through prolonged wear.

The construction is direct and purposeful. A traditional point collar sits above the original Éclair front zip, while a broad horizontal yoke runs across the chest and continues around the back. Two neatly worked besom pockets are incorporated into the chest seam, with larger angled pockets positioned lower at the hips. The long, straight body gives the jacket its characteristic mid-century French workwear silhouette.

The original Éclair hardware is an important identifying detail and remains in working order. Together with the Grillon label, construction and overall styling, it supports the jacket's mid-century French origins.

Inside, the jacket tells much of its own history. The lining appears originally to have been wool throughout, worked in a distinctive green, rust and cream check. As areas wore through over the years, sections were carefully repaired and reinforced with cotton fabric rather than the entire lining being discarded and replaced.

There are several small age-related stitch repairs elsewhere on the garment, most difficult to notice without close inspection, together with a couple of tiny holes. Someone clearly valued this jacket enough to keep maintaining it, and those old repairs have been retained as part of its history rather than disguised.

The history is in the leather itself.

Condition & Preservation

Very good vintage condition for a working leather jacket of this age.

The cowhide remains strong, supple and fully wearable. Decades of wear have softened and broken in the leather considerably, particularly through areas of regular movement and handling, giving parts of the jacket an exceptionally soft feel while retaining good strength and substance.

There is extensive natural patina and finish wear throughout. The original cognac colour now ranges from deeper tobacco brown through warm caramel and golden tones. Light surface crazing is present around the rear of the collar, together with several discreet old stitch repairs and a couple of tiny age-related holes.

The original wool lining shows wear and has been repaired and reinforced with cotton fabric in places over the years. These historic repairs remain intact and form an important part of the jacket's character and working history.

The original Éclair front zip remains functional.

The jacket has been specialist cleaned and carefully conditioned in-house. Our approach has been one of preservation, returning suppleness to the cowhide while retaining the original finish, historic repairs and naturally developed patina.

Key Identifying Features

• 1940s–50s French Grillon leather workwear jacket
• Original “Pluie... Vent... Neige” Grillon label
• Cognac cowhide
• Substantial hide with a beautifully broken-in handle
• Exceptionally soft and supple in areas through decades of wear
• Naturally developed cognac, caramel and tobacco patina
• Extensive original finish wear
• Original period Éclair front zip
• Traditional point collar
• Broad front and rear shoulder yoke
• Twin besom chest pockets
• Two angled lower hand pockets
• Long, straight workwear cut
  
• Green, rust and cream checked wool lining
• Historic cotton lining repairs and reinforcement
• Discreet age-related stitch repairs
• Specialist cleaned and conditioned in-house
• Strong and fully wearable

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 23"
• Shoulders (seam to seam): 19"
• Sleeve length (shoulder to cuff): 24.5"
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 17.5"
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 31.5"

This jacket is best suited to a 42" regular fit. Please compare the measurements with a similar garment you own to ensure the best fit.