Vintage 1930s–40s French Cowhide Double-Breasted Motoring Coat

A substantial pre-war to wartime-era French leather coat, produced under the Noël Cuir marque and retaining its original woven label marked “Marque Déposée” with a Paris 20e address. Dating from around the 1930s to 1940s, it is an exceptional example of early French leather outerwear, built with the weight, coverage and practical detailing associated with motoring and cold-weather use during the period.

The leather is the defining feature. Cut from substantial brown cowhide, it retains considerable body and structure while having softened naturally through decades of wear. The original dark brown finish has developed an extraordinary patina, particularly across the shoulders, sleeves, collar, belt and other high-contact areas, where warmer tobacco and russet tones now show through beneath the surface.

Creasing runs deeply through the hide, with broad folds and variations in grain across the larger panels. Particularly impressive are the shoulders and sleeves, where decades of movement have worn through the darker surface colour and exposed the warmer brown beneath. Despite that considerable surface character, the leather remains strong and supple.

The construction is equally impressive. The coat has a long double-breasted front secured by leather-covered buttons, with broad notched lapels and distinctive parallel stitched detailing at the upper chest. A buttoned flap pocket sits high on the chest, while two large hand pockets are worked discreetly into the lower body.

The shoulders are cut with long sweeping seams rather than conventional square shoulder construction, allowing the substantial hide to fall naturally through the upper body. A full leather belt passes around the waist through substantial belt loops and closes with a simple metal buckle. Matching leather adjustment straps finish the cuffs.

There is very little unnecessary decoration. Much of the presence comes from the proportions, the weight of the cowhide and the sheer scale of the leather panels. From the rear particularly, the construction is remarkably clean, allowing a large uninterrupted expanse of hide to form the body of the coat.

Inside is one of its best surviving features. The body is fully lined in a wonderfully heavy cream, brown and grey checked wool, giving the coat considerably more warmth than an unlined leather overcoat. The original Noël Cuir label remains stitched beneath the internal chest pocket and reads “Marque Déposée”, together with the Paris address.

The combination of substantial cowhide, heavy checked wool lining, double-breasted closure, belted waist and long protective cut gives this coat exactly the purposeful character expected of early French motoring outerwear.

The history is in the leather itself.

Condition & Preservation

Very good vintage condition for a leather coat of this age, with extensive original character.

The cowhide remains strong, supple and fully wearable. There is considerable natural finish wear throughout, particularly across the shoulders, sleeves, collar, belt and edges, where the original darker brown has worn back to warmer tobacco and russet tones.

There are creases, scratches, surface marks and variations in colour consistent with decades of genuine use. These have deliberately been preserved rather than disguised.

The leather-covered buttons, waist belt and metal buckle remain present, together with the cuff adjustment straps.

The checked wool lining is remarkably well preserved considering the age of the garment, with age-related wear and marks as expected. The original Noël Cuir label also remains present and legible.

The coat has been specialist cleaned and carefully conditioned in-house, restoring suppleness to the cowhide while preserving the original surface, patina and evidence of age.

This is not a pristine coat, nor should it be. Its appeal lies in the combination of strong surviving construction and the extraordinary surface character acquired over many decades.

Key Identifying Features

• 1930s–40s French leather motoring coat
• Original Noël Cuir woven label
• “Marque Déposée” marking
• Paris 20e address to label
• Substantial brown cowhide construction
• Exceptional naturally developed patina
• Deep brown, tobacco and russet tonal variation
• Long double-breasted cut
• Leather-covered buttons
• Wide notched lapels
• Decorative parallel stitched lapel detailing
• Buttoned flap chest pocket
• Two lower hand pockets
• Internal wrist storm cuffs
• Underarm vets
• Full leather waist belt
• Metal belt buckle
• Substantial leather belt loops
• Buttoned cuff straps
• Long sweeping shoulder construction
• Large leather body panels
• Heavy cream, brown and grey checked wool lining
• Internal chest pocket
• Specialist cleaned and conditioned in-house
  

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 23.5"
• Shoulders (approximate): 19"
• Raglan sleeve length (neck to cuff): 31.5"
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 18.5"
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 35"

Best suited to approximately a 43" chest. Please compare the measurements with a similar garment you own to ensure the best fit.