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Archival Versace AW16 Runway Metallic Blue Shearling Flight Jacket
Archival Versace AW16 Runway Metallic Blue Shearling Flight Jacket
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In the autumn of 2016, Donatella Versace sent menswear into space, and sent shearling with it.
The Milan collection was silver and grey, with fibre-optic seams in several looks and metallic leather and shearling throughout, including a metallic blue leather jacket with a white shearling collar, cuffs and hem. This jacket comes from that collection. Bruce Weber shot the season’s campaign.
Nicolas Cage wore this model at Salt Lake City airport in January 2018, on his way to the Sundance Film Festival, with a cowboy hat, sunglasses and light grey jeans. GQ featured the look in its piece on his airport style.
The shape is older than the season. The B-3 was developed in the early 1930s as a winter answer to the leather A-2, because sheepskin was warmer than goatskin. It was built for open cockpits and unpressurised bombers at altitude, and by the Second World War it was a firm favourite among crews on B-17s and B-24s.
The broad collar turned up against the slipstream. Straps at the collar and waist let a man cinch the jacket tighter as the temperature dropped. Firm wrist closures kept the cold off the hands.
Versace kept every one of those answers. The collar is deep and belted, and fastens high. The cuffs buckle. The waist belt draws the body in. The hand pockets zip shut, and the raglan sleeves leave the arms free to move.
Then comes the change. The shell is metallic blue, and the crackle is the design: a finish made to look weathered, so the light breaks across the surface unevenly. It was made this way. Against it, the cream fleece at the collar, cuffs and hem looks almost white.
The zip pulls are Medusa heads, stamped VERSACE. The story told about the emblem is that Gianni Versace took it from a Medusa image in a Roman ruin in Reggio Calabria, where he and his siblings played as children, and chose her because she provokes passion.
The hardware is silver-tone throughout. Inside, a Versace plaque marks the back of the neck, and the lining is thick cream fleece the whole way down.
A black label reads “Made in Italy. Manufactured and Certified by Versace”. The white care label from Gianni Versace S.p.A. of Milan carries an authenticity code, the model number A74928, the fabric number A220075 and the production code PROABB 2016.1044.
Gianni Versace founded the house in Milan in 1978, and his sister Donatella has run it since 1997. This model is understood to have been made in small numbers, many of them for celebrity clients.
The season was space. The jacket is for the ground, and for winter.
Condition & Restoration
Excellent condition, close to new. It has been worn only a few times and stored since.
The crackled metallic finish is part of the design, not wear. The darker tone that shows through at the seams and creases belongs to the finish. The leather is supple, and the shearling is clean, thick and plush. Ready to wear.
Key Features
- Versace, Autumn/Winter 2016, B-3 style
- Metallic blue sheepskin with a designed crackle finish
- Designed crackle finish, with darker tone showing at seams and creases by design
- Cream shearling collar, cuffs, hem and full interior
- Deep belted collar, buckled cuffs and waist belt
- Zipped hand pockets
- Medusa-head zip pulls stamped VERSACE
- Raglan sleeves, silver-tone hardware
- Versace plaque at the back neck
- Made in Italy, manufactured and certified by Versace
- Care label with authenticity code, model number A74928 and production code PROABB 2016.1044
- Same model worn by Nicolas Cage, featured by GQ
- Understood original retail price around £6,200
Size & Fit
All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat.
- Chest (armpit to armpit): 23 in / 58.4 cm
- Shoulders (across the back, point to point): 20 in / 50.8 cm
- Sleeve (neck seam to cuff): 34 in / 86.4 cm
- Underarm seam to cuff: 18.5 in / 47 cm
- Back length (base of collar to hem): 24.5 in / 62.2 cm
Tagged size: IT 50 (UK/US 40)
Best suited to: a 40" chest, Size M.
Fit: A short B-3 cut that ends at the waist, roomy through the chest to take the thick shearling lining. The waist belt draws it in, and the buckled cuffs close the wrists.
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