Original 1940s WWII German Leather Officer Trench Coat

Dating from the 1940s, this long German leather coat belongs to the tradition of officer-type outerwear bought privately rather than issued. Made by leather workshops across Germany rather than to a single pattern, no two coats of this kind are quite alike, and this example is set apart by its deep bottle-green leather.

The leather is heavy and smooth, and has aged unevenly across the coat. The shoulders, upper back and sleeves have softened to olive and grey-green, while the collar edges, piping and belt have worn to paler tones. The main body panels keep much of their original depth of colour, so the contrast between worn and unworn areas is striking. It is a patina that only decades of wear can produce, and no new coat can imitate it.

The cut is clean and understated. A concealed front fastening runs the full length of the coat. The collar closes at the throat with a single leather football button, or folds back into broad notched lapels. Pointed yokes with fine piping cross the chest and are repeated across the upper back. Two angled welt pockets sit low on the front, and a long vent runs up the back.

At the waist, a wide leather belt fastens through two large leather-covered rectangular fittings rather than a standard buckle. This arrangement is found on German private-purchase greatcoats of the period. Buttoned cuff straps complete the exterior.

The interior is fully lined in green, with an adjustable internal belt for wearing the coat open. The original German hardware survives throughout. There is a ZIPP zipper on the inside breast pocket, a Gutos buckle and eyelets stamped Stocko on the internal belt, and green-capped press studs on the side straps. Stocko was founded in Wuppertal in 1901 as a maker of buttons and fasteners. The hardware is complete, which adds considerably to its interest.

For all its history, this is a coat to be worn rather than kept. Belted over a heavy knit, or left open over a shirt and trousers, it has a presence few modern coats come close to.

An uncommon survivor, and one that still carries every mark of the life it has lived.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for a leather coat of this age.

The leather is strong and all seams are sound. There is natural creasing, edge wear, light surface marks and the tonal variation described above.

The green lining is in very good condition. All hardware, both belts, the covered fittings, cuff straps and buttons are present as photographed.

Professionally cleaned and conditioned in-house, using our own Heritage Leather Conditioner from the Workshop Blends range, with the patina left intact. It is ready to wear from the day it arrives.

Key Features

• Original 1940s German private-purchase officer-type leather trench coat
  
• Deep bottle-green leather with olive and grey-green patina
  
• Concealed front fastening
• Collar with leather football button at the throat
• Broad notched lapels
• Pointed piped yokes to the front and back
• Two angled welt pockets
• Wide leather belt with twin leather-covered rectangular fittings
• Buttoned cuff straps
• Long rear vent
• Full green lining with internal adjustable belt
• Original ZIPP zipper to the internal breast pocket
• Stocko eyelets and Gutos buckle
• Green-capped press studs
  

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 23" / 58.5 cm
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 19" / 48.5 cm
• Sleeve, shoulder seam to cuff: 27" / 68.5 cm
• Underarm seam to cuff: 18" / 45.5 cm
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 43" / 109 cm

Best suited to: Approximately a 42" chest / Size M/L.

For the best indication of sizing, please compare the measurements above with a similar coat you already own. For any sizing questions, please get in touch.