Original 1940s German Military Horsehide Leather Officer Trench Coat

An exceptional original German horsehide leather coat dating from the 1940s, constructed in the long belted style associated with military, official and civilian motoring dress of the period.

Cut from substantial dark brown horsehide, its proportions are imposing, with a full-length body, broad lapelled front, pronounced shoulder line and fitted waist defined by its original leather belt.

The construction is particularly accomplished. A shaped yoke sweeps across the upper chest and continues around the shoulders into a deeply scalloped rear yoke. Below it, large uninterrupted panels form the body of the coat, giving the leather both presence and an unusually clean silhouette.

The asymmetrical front can be worn open with broad lapels or closed considerably higher around the chest and neck. Fine parallel stitching follows the lapels, while substantial button-fastened leather straps secure the wrists. The full leather waist belt is finished with leather-covered rectangular fittings, maintaining the restrained appearance of the coat.

At the rear, a long central vent rises from the hem, allowing greater freedom of movement when walking or sitting, an important practical consideration in a coat of this length.

The interior is equally interesting. Rather than the conventional fully enclosed lining expected in later leather outerwear, much of the internal construction remains visible beneath a substantial brown moleskin structure. It provides an unusually clear view of how the garment was assembled and adds considerably to its period character.

More than eighty years have given the horsehide a particularly beautiful natural patina. The original dark brown has developed considerable depth and variation, with warmer brown emerging across the shoulders, sleeves, seams and other areas repeatedly exposed to movement and handling. Fine scratches, rubbing, softened edges and deep natural creasing remain visible throughout, while the larger panels retain areas of darker, richer colour. The result is irregular and completely individual, the accumulated surface of a coat that has aged naturally rather than an effect created to imitate age.

Despite that extensive surface character, the horsehide has lost little of its substance. It remains strong and substantial, while decades of wear have given the sleeves and areas of movement a natural drape that heavy leather only develops with time.

Long horsehide leather coats of this type formed part of German military dress during the 1930s and 1940s, particularly as substantial outerwear for officers and personnel requiring protection from wind and weather. Unlike standardised field clothing, leather outerwear could vary considerably in construction, with privately purchased and tailored examples accounting for many of the differences encountered between surviving coats.

This is an exceptionally preserved example of German military leather outerwear from the period. Its imposing full-length cut, substantial horsehide construction and remarkably complete survival make it an increasingly difficult piece to find in this condition.

An imposing survivor from a period when leather outerwear was made for protection, longevity and purpose.

Condition & Restoration

Excellent vintage condition for an original German leather coat dating from the 1940s. The garment remains strong, structurally sound and remarkably well preserved for its age, with expected signs of genuine use but no significant deterioration affecting its overall presentation or integrity.

The brown moleskin interior also remains substantially intact, with age-related wear consistent with the period.

The coat has been specialist leather cleaned and conditioned in-house, with care taken to preserve its established character.

As part of the restoration, the leather has also been carefully reshaped to reduce undesirable set-in creasing caused by prolonged wear and storage, restoring a more natural structure and drape without altering the coat's original construction or removing the character of the hide.

The buttons, belt fittings and remaining hardware have been carefully cleaned.

Key Features

• Original German leather trench coat
• Circa 1940s
• Substantial dark brown horsehide
• Beautiful naturally developed patina
• Full-length period construction
• Asymmetrical high-closing front
• Broad lapels with parallel stitched detailing
• Shaped front shoulder yoke
• Deep scalloped rear shoulder yoke
• Original full leather waist belt
• Leather-covered rectangular belt fittings
• Button-fastened leather wrist straps
• Large uninterrupted horsehide body panels
• Long rear walking vent
• Brown moleskin interior
  
• German military officer period construction
• Specialist restored in-house

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 23"
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 19.5"
• Shoulder seam to cuff: 28"
• Underarm seam to cuff: 19.5"
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 53"