Vintage 1940s German Leather Motorcycle Jacket RIES Zips

What sets this piece apart is the surface. At first glance it reads dark, but as the light shifts a deep green base begins to come through, broken with brown and grey across the wear points. It gives the jacket a depth that isn’t uniform or predictable, more oil-dark than flat, with movement across each panel that only comes from long use.

The hide itself is dense vegetable tanned cowhide, still firm and structured in the hand. There’s a weight to it that reflects how it was originally intended to be used. Over time, the leather has developed natural patina, creasing and abrasion, with light chapping in high contact areas that adds texture without weakening the material. It remains strong, stable, and very much wearable.

The cut is controlled without being rigid. A slightly longer body is brought in by an elasticated waist, creating shape without the need for adjustment. It sits close through the midsection while keeping a clean, practical line through the shoulders and chest, giving it a balanced, functional silhouette.

Construction is straightforward and purposeful. The front zip runs cleanly through the body, fitted with an original RIES zipper that operates as it should. The pocket zips are MEWA, both consistent with German manufacture of the period. Angled hand pockets are set neatly into the waist, and the shoulders carry just enough structure to hold the jacket’s shape without excess build. Inside the sleeves, storm cuffs are built in, closing the jacket at the wrist for use in colder conditions.

Inside, the jacket is lined in moleskin. A hard wearing cotton fabric used in German utilitarian garments, chosen for durability and warmth rather than softness. It adds substance to the jacket and sits naturally after decades of wear.

Condition and Preservation

The jacket presents in very good vintage condition. The cowhide remains firm and structurally sound throughout, with surface wear limited to patina, abrasion, and light chapping consistent with age. The moleskin lining shows wear and has historic stitch repairs under the arms, all holding well. Storm cuffs remain intact within the sleeves. All hardware is original and working, including the RIES main zip and MEWA pocket zips.

It has been professionally cleaned and conditioned in the workshop to bring the leather back into balance while preserving its original tone and finish. Seams, structure, and overall integrity remain strong.

A well-preserved example, defined as much by its colour and surface as its construction.

Key Features

• 1940s German leather jacket
• Heavyweight full grain vegetable tanned cowhide
• Deep green base with brown and grey tonal variation
• Naturally developed patina and light chapping
• RIES main zipper
• MEWA pocket zips
• Elasticated waist
• Angled hand pockets
• Internal storm cuffs
• Moleskin lining
• Period German construction

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest armpit to armpit: 21 inches
• Sleeve length underarm seam to cuff: 17.5 inches
• Sleeve length shoulder seam to cuff: 25 inches
• Shoulders seam to seam: 18 inches
• Back length collar seam to hem: 28.5 inches

Best suited to a 38 inch chest. Please compare with a similar garment for accuracy.