Original 1940s German Horsehide Leather Motorcycle Jacket, RIES Zippers

Built in Germany during the 1940s, this heavyweight horsehide motorcycle jacket comes from an era when riding leathers were serious protective equipment. Its long belted body, high-closing collar and extraordinary asymmetric front were designed around the practical problem of spending hours exposed to wind and cold on an open motorcycle.

This was the world of civilian motorcyclists, professional riders and motorcycle-mounted services. German military dispatch riders, known as Kradmelder, demonstrated the value of substantial protective leather clothing, while police and other professional riders faced many of the same demands. This jacket has no known service provenance and is not presented as an issued garment, but its construction belongs to that same functional culture of mid-century German motorcycling.

The asymmetric front is the defining feature. A period RIES zipper closes beneath a broad overlapping section of horsehide, providing substantial coverage across the chest. The full leather belt draws the jacket firmly into the waist, while adjustable cuff straps and a high collar further reduce exposure. At the rear, multiple rows of gathering create a pronounced narrow waist beneath the broad shoulders, giving the jacket its unmistakable early European riding silhouette.

Practical details include a vertical zipped chest pocket and two large lower flap pockets, one incorporating an additional zipped side entry. The substantial leather-covered belt buckle, raised piping and surviving RIES hardware all contribute to the purposeful construction. Inside, the jacket retains its brown moleskin lining, a robust period cloth entirely appropriate to heavyweight riding outerwear.

Decades of genuine wear have given the horsehide tremendous character. The very dark brown surface moves into warmer brown and chestnut tones around the collar, piping, belt, seams and other high-contact areas. Deep creasing and grain run through the sleeves and body, while the raised piping carries pronounced distressed edge wear. Crucially, beneath all that history the horsehide remains strong and supple.

This is an exceptionally characterful survivor from 1940s German motorcycling, retaining the long asymmetric construction, RIES hardware, moleskin interior and heavily developed horsehide that make jackets of this period so compelling. It has not been made to look new. It has been preserved so that its history remains visible while the jacket remains entirely wearable.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for an original 1940s motorcycle jacket. The heavyweight horsehide remains strong, supple and structurally sound, with extensive genuine patina, creasing, rubbing and surface wear consistent with its age.

There is pronounced distressed wear to the raised piping, revealing warmer brown beneath the darker surface. A historical repair is present at the right shoulder seam. This appears to have been carried out many years ago and remains strong, secure and discreet. It requires no further attention and has deliberately been left undisturbed.

The lower left cuff button is worn but remains present. One lower pocket has an additional zipped side entry where the original zipper pull is no longer present, although the zipper itself remains functional. The brown moleskin lining shows age and wear but remains serviceable.

The jacket has been specialist leather cleaned and conditioned in-house. The horsehide is beautifully supple and ready to wear, with its established patina and historical wear carefully preserved.

Key Features

• Original 1940s German motorcycle jacket
• Heavyweight horsehide leather
• Period RIES zipper hardware
• Asymmetric overlapping front
• High-closing motorcycle collar
• Long belted riding construction
• Full leather waist belt
• Gutoz buckle
• Leather-covered rectangular buckle
• Vertical zipped chest pocket
• Twin lower flap pockets
• Additional zipped side-entry pocket
  
• Gathered rear waist
• Raised leather piping
• Brown moleskin lining
• Deep natural grain and period patina

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 23"
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 19"
• Shoulder seam to cuff: 25.5"
• Underarm seam to cuff: 17.5"
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 29"

Recommended fit: Size Medium, approximately a 42" chest, Regular fit.

For the best indication of fit, please compare the measurements above with a similar jacket you already own.