Original 1940s German Horsehide Leather Belted Jacket ZIPP Hardware

An original German horsehide leather jacket dating from the 1940s, built during a period when substantial leather outerwear was still made as practical equipment rather than fashion. Long in the body, belted at the waist and constructed from broad panels of heavyweight horsehide, it has the purposeful proportions associated with European leather jackets of the wartime and immediate post-war years.

The construction is particularly good. A broad pointed collar sits above a full metal front zipper, while a horizontal yoke runs across the chest and continues around the back. A zipped breast pocket provides the only detail across the upper front, balanced by two angled lower hand pockets. The full leather waist belt passes through substantial leather loops and closes through a simple rectangular metal fitting, drawing the otherwise straight body into the waist. At the rear, gathering beneath the belt gives the lower section additional movement and produces a distinctly period silhouette.

Original hardware adds considerably to the jacket's character. The main fastener carries period ZIP-marked hardware, with a substantial brass-toned chain that has developed the muted surface expected from age. The smaller breast zipper survives alongside it. Neither dominates the design, which is characteristic of a jacket whose appeal comes primarily from its leather, proportions and construction.

Inside is one of the jacket's most distinctive surviving details. The body retains its original green, tan, cream and yellow checked lining, complete with an Edelweiß Lederbekleidung woven label. Rather than the plain brown or grey interiors commonly encountered in period leather jackets, the checked cloth gives this example a particularly individual identity and remains an important part of the garment's originality.

The horsehide itself is beautifully preserved. Deep brown across the larger protected panels, it moves into warmer brown around the collar, seams, sleeves, belt and other areas repeatedly handled during wear. Fine scratches, gentle rubbing and natural creasing remain visible across the surface, but the leather has avoided the heavy deterioration that can affect jackets approaching eighty years old. The hide remains strong and supple, with the dense grain and substantial feel expected of good period horsehide.

What survives here is a remarkably complete piece of 1940s German leather outerwear, with its original character still very much intact. The period ZIP hardware, full leather belt, unusual checked interior and labelled German manufacture give it far more individuality than an anonymous vintage leather jacket, while the restrained design makes it entirely wearable today.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for an original leather jacket dating from the 1940s. The horsehide remains strong, supple and structurally sound, with no significant damage to the leather. There are the expected light surface marks, rubbing, creasing and areas of naturally developed patina associated with genuine age and wear.

As part of the restoration, the jacket's seams have been carefully inspected throughout. Where age had weakened individual areas of stitching, they have been sympathetically strengthened with discreet hand stitching. The work has been deliberately kept unobtrusive and is difficult to distinguish during normal wear, preserving the jacket's original appearance and construction.

The original checked body lining remains remarkably well preserved for its age, together with the original Edelweiß Lederbekleidung label.

The jacket has been specialist leather cleaned and conditioned in-house, with care taken to preserve its established character. The leather has also been carefully reshaped to reduce undesirable set-in creasing caused by prolonged wear and storage, restoring a more natural structure and drape without altering the jacket's original construction or removing the character of the hide.

The period ZIP fasteners have been refurbished, cleaned, waxed and polished and operate correctly. The belt fitting and remaining hardware have also been carefully cleaned.

Key Features

• Original German leather jacket
• Circa 1940s
• Heavyweight horsehide leather
• Deep aged brown colour
• Naturally developed period patina
• Long belted construction
• Broad pointed leather collar
• Horizontal front and rear shoulder yoke
• Period ZIPP main zipper
• Zipped breast pocket
• Two angled lower hand pockets
• Original full leather waist belt
• Rectangular metal belt fitting
• Gathered rear waist construction
• Original checked body lining
• Original Edelweiß Lederbekleidung woven label

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 21"
• Shoulders (seam to seam): 18"
• Shoulder seam to cuff: 25"
• Underarm seam to cuff: 18"
• Back length (base of collar to hem): 30.5"

Recommended fit: 38 Regular, size small.

For the best indication of fit, please compare the measurements above with a similar jacket you already own.