Original 1940s German Heavyweight Horsehide Leather Double-Breasted Overcoat

Heavy leather overcoats were part of the landscape of German life during the 1940s. Long before technical fabrics became commonplace, a substantial leather Ledermantel offered serious protection against wind and weather, whether worn for motoring, professional work or official duties. Privately purchased leather overcoats were also worn by German officers, often sourced from civilian tailors rather than drawn from a single standard pattern. This original example survives from that world, cut from exceptionally heavy black horsehide and carrying the unmistakable presence of period German leather tailoring.

Its character comes as much from the cut as the hide. The long body is double-breasted and belted at the waist, with broad lapels that can be brought higher around the neck. Most distinctive are the sharply pointed V-shaped yokes sweeping across the chest and echoed by the deeply shaped yoke across the back. They give the coat a broad, structured shoulder line above the long skirt. Two angled welt pockets sit discreetly at the sides, while fixed buttoned leather tabs finish the cuffs. It is an imposing design, but a remarkably restrained one, relying on proportion, material and construction rather than decoration.

Opening the coat reveals how seriously it was made. Smooth brown-grey cloth lines the shoulders, upper body and sleeves before giving way to a substantial tan brushed lining below. An internal zipped breast pocket is incorporated into the upper section. Together with the long cut and dense outer hide, it creates the sort of protective interior expected of a coat intended to spend real time outdoors in a northern European winter.

Eight decades have left their history across the horsehide. The black surface has developed deep rolling creases through the sleeves, natural grain across the larger panels and the occasional softened edge or small mark from genuine use. At a few high-contact points, particularly around the cuff edges and shoulders, wear reveals subtle traces of the hide beneath. None of it has been manufactured for effect. It is simply the surface of an old horsehide coat that has been worn, cared for and allowed to age naturally.

Heavy horsehide coats such as this belong to a distinctive chapter of 1940s German clothing, closely associated with private-purchase officer outerwear, official dress and the country's established motoring culture. Made at a time when a leather overcoat was serious equipment and a considerable investment, this example retains everything that makes the period so compelling: formidable black horsehide, strong German tailoring and the unmistakable character that comes from eight decades of genuine wear. Beautifully preserved and entirely wearable, it remains an exceptional survivor of its era.

Condition & Restoration

Excellent vintage condition for an original 1940s heavyweight leather coat. The horsehide remains strong, beautifully supple and structurally sound throughout, with no significant deterioration to the hide.

There is genuine period patina throughout, including natural creasing, light rubbing, small surface marks and wear to some of the high-contact edges, particularly around the cuffs and shoulders. These are entirely consistent with the coat's age and genuine use and do not detract from its exceptionally strong overall presentation.

The leather cuff tabs are fixed rather than adjustable. Two cuff buttons were missing and have been sympathetically replaced with closely matched examples. The interior shows expected signs of age but remains remarkably well preserved and fully serviceable.

The coat has been specialist leather cleaned and conditioned in-house, preserving its established grain, surface and period character.

Key Features

• Original 1940s German leather overcoat
• Exceptionally heavyweight black horsehide leather
• Traditional German Ledermantel construction
• Long double-breasted silhouette
• Distinctive pointed V-shaped chest yokes
• Deep shaped rear shoulder yoke
• Broad period lapels
• High-closing protective collar
• Matching full leather waist belt
• Metal belt buckle
• Two angled front welt pockets
• Fixed buttoned leather cuff tabs
• Brown-grey cloth upper lining
• Substantial tan brushed lower lining
• Internal zipped breast pocket
• Internal wrist storm cuffs
• Deep natural horsehide grain
• Genuine period patina

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 25"
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 19.5"
• Shoulder seam to cuff: 26"
• Underarm seam to cuff: 16.6"
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 37"

Recommended fit: Best suited to a Size Large, approximately a 44" chest with comfortable room for layering, or a 46" chest for a closer, more fitted silhouette.

For the best indication of fit, please compare the measurements above with a similar coat you already own.