Original 1940s German Sheepskin Leather Motorcycle Jacket – RIES Zip

Made in Germany in 1949, this belted motorcycle jacket is cut from soft sheepskin leather and fitted throughout with zips by RIES, a German maker. It was made for the bike rather than the street, and that shows in every part of the cut.

The front is built for the road. The main zip runs on the diagonal, well to one side and hidden under a broad flap, so when it is done up the leather lies double over much of the chest and keeps the wind off. Undo it and the collar opens out into broad lapels, so it works shut tight on the bike or worn open in town.

The leather is unusually soft, with real give through the sleeves and a firmer hand across the back and shoulders, where a jacket takes its weight. Sheepskin makes for a lighter jacket that moves with you from the first wear. Over the decades it has worn from deep chocolate to warm tobacco wherever the body meets it, across the shoulders, sleeves, pocket edges and belt. The panels that saw less rubbing have kept their dark colour and taken on a low shine. Up close the surface is finely crazed, like old varnish, but the leather underneath is still sound.

The rest of the construction follows the same practical thinking. A full leather belt with a leather-covered buckle and keeper cinches the middle to keep the cold from climbing up from below. A long zip pocket runs upright on the chest, with two slanted zip hand pockets below, so nothing works loose on the move. The cuffs fasten with buttoned tabs, snug enough to sit over gloves.

Inside, the body is lined in tan cotton moleskin and the sleeves in smooth brown twill, so the jacket slides on easily. A leather strap with a ring and snap holds the inside front in place, and there is an inside pocket trimmed in leather, closing with a button tab, and a small hanging loop at the neck.

Seventy-odd years on, every original zip still runs, both linings are whole, and there is plenty of life left in it.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for its age.

The leather is strong and structurally sound, with a well-established patina. The lighter tobacco tone at the high points is part of the jacket's character, not damage.

The surface shows genuine age and wear, including fine crazing, light rubbing, softened edges and natural variation in tone, with some light chapping at the cuffs. There is a small pale scuff low on the left front.

All the original RIES zips run smoothly. The belt, buckle and cuff tabs fasten as they should, and the remaining hardware has kept its age-developed appearance. The tan moleskin body lining and brown twill sleeve linings are intact, and the inside pocket, inner strap, ring, snap and hanging loop are all present and sound.

Professionally cleaned and dressed in-house using our own Workshop Blends, with the leather left soft and supple and its natural character intact.

All photographs show the actual jacket for sale and form an important part of the condition description.

Key Features

• German belted sheepskin leather motorcycle jacket, c.1949
• Original German RIES zips throughout, all running
• Diagonal front zip under a deep overlapping flap; wear it open with wide lapels or closed to the collar
• Soft sheepskin leather, dark chocolate faded to tobacco at the edges and high points
• Full leather belt with leather-covered buckle and keeper
• Long zipped chest pocket and two slanted zipped hand pockets
• Buttoned cuff tabs
• Tan cotton moleskin body lining, brown twill sleeve linings
• Inner leather strap with ring and snap to hold the front
• Leather-edged inside pocket with button tab
• Leather hanging loop at the collar
• Very good vintage condition

Size & Fit

All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat.

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 21.5" / 54.5 cm
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 18" / 45.5 cm
• Sleeve, shoulder seam to cuff: 24.5" / 62 cm
• Underarm seam to cuff: 18" / 45.5 cm
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 28" / 71 cm

Best suited to: 38" chest / Size Small

Fit: A slim 1940s cut, narrow through the shoulders and close in the body, with the belt drawing it in at the waist. It is long enough to sit over the hip and suits a 38" chest.

For the best indication of sizing, please compare the measurements above with a similar jacket you already own. For any sizing questions, please get in touch.