Original 1930s French M1929 Leather Flying Coat

In the early 1930s, French aircrews were issued a new set of leather flying clothing. There was a one-piece flying suit, and alongside it a long, double-breasted leather coat. Known as the M1929, the pattern entered service just as the Armée de l'Air became an independent air force in 1933. It was worn by French airmen throughout the decade and into the first months of the Second World War. French naval aviators wore it too, as did Polish airmen training in France in the spring of 1940.

The coat is cut for an open cockpit and a cold airfield. Broad notched lapels close high across the chest, and raglan sleeves with piped seams give freedom through the shoulders. The double-breasted front fastens with leather-covered football buttons, a detail found across French flying clothing of the period. An angled chest pocket closes with a smaller football button on a leather tab, and slanted hand pockets sit low in the skirt. The belt fastens with twin nickel D-rings, as on the M1929 flying suit, and buttoned tabs close the cuffs against the wind.

Inside, the body is lined in heavy brown wool and the sleeves in brown and cream striped cotton, with a zipped inner pocket.

Nine decades of wear have taken the leather to a soft, mottled brown. It is lighter across the shoulders, back and hem, and deeper around the buttons and belt. The grain has opened along the belt and pocket welts, and the whole coat has the relaxed drape of leather that has been worn for a very long time.

A rare survivor from the first years of the Armée de l'Air.

Condition & Restoration

Very good vintage condition for its age.

The leather remains strong and supple, with natural age-related mottling, creasing and variation to the finish, particularly across the back, shoulders and hem. Over its long working life, some of the football buttons have been replaced with period-correct buttons of similar age, while several originals remain. The belt, D-rings and cuff tabs remain in good order. The wool lining and striped sleeve lining are in great condition for the age.

The coat has been professionally specialist cleaned in-house and subsequently conditioned in our workshop using our own workshop blends. Its naturally developed wear and character have been carefully preserved.

Key Features

• Original 1930s French M1929 pattern leather flying coat
• The pattern worn by the Armée de l'Air from its formation in 1933
• Also worn by French naval aviators and Polish airmen in France, 1940
• Double-breasted front with leather-covered football buttons, a mix of originals and period-correct replacements
• Broad notched lapels
• Raglan sleeves with piped seams
• Angled chest pocket with football button tab
• Slanted skirt hand pockets
• Waist belt with twin nickel D-rings
• Buttoned cuff tabs
• Heavy brown wool body lining
• Brown and cream striped cotton sleeve lining
• Zipped inner pocket

Garment Measurements, Laid Flat

• Chest, armpit to armpit: 24" / 61 cm
• Shoulders, seam to seam: 21" / 53.5 cm
• Sleeve, side of neck to cuff (raglan): 30" / 76 cm
• Underarm seam to cuff: 18" / 45.5 cm
• Back length, base of collar to hem: 38" / 96.5 cm

Best suited to: 44" to 46" chest / Size L to XL

Fit: Cut with the generous body of a period flying coat, designed to be worn over layers. It will suit a 44" chest with room for a knit beneath, or a 46" chest with a shirt or light layer. The underarm sleeve length of 18" is on the shorter side, so please check this against a coat you already own.

For the best indication of sizing, please compare the measurements above with a similar coat you already own. For any sizing questions, please get in touch.