Vintage 1950s German Leather Motorrad Motorcycle Jacket

BWS Lederbekleidung was one of the serious names in post-war German motorcycle outfitting, a manufacturer whose jackets were sold through specialist motorcycle outfitters and department stores across Germany. This is a fully labelled example, the BWS Lederbekleidung badge present and legible on the interior lining, and it represents the manufacturer at the height of their craft.

The red tape running through every zip closure is the signature detail of the organised German motorcycle club culture of the 1950s, a period when riding clubs became a central part of working and community life across the country. Red zip tape was a mark of belonging, of identity, and of pride in the machine and the ride. It runs here through every closure on the jacket, front zip, chest pocket, lower pockets and cuff zips, entirely intact and uncorroded throughout. It is rare to find a jacket where all the red tape has survived in this condition.

The braided epaulettes at both shoulders are worked in single-tone dark green leather, terminating at a dome stud, and sit above the most elaborate quilted shoulder panel construction we have seen on a jacket of this type. The quilting fans outward in a wave pattern from the shoulder seam across the entire upper arm, providing structured protection and giving the jacket a visual drama that sets it apart from plainer examples. Red piping runs along all the major panel seams and edges throughout the jacket, from the shoulder seams down through the front panels, along the belt, and across the rear. The combination of the green leather, the red tape and piping, and the braided epaulettes is striking and completely coherent. This was a jacket built to be seen as much as worn.

The construction is Zipp branded throughout, the front closure and all pocket and cuff zips carrying original Zipp hardware with the characteristic period teeth and sliders. All are present and intact. The front closes on an asymmetric off-centre zip in the classic Motorrad tradition. Two angled chest zip pockets sit across the front. Two lower zip pockets are positioned at the waist. Cuff zips run to both sleeves.

The belt system on this jacket is exceptional and specific to this maker. A full removable waist belt attaches via zip closures at each side, allowing it to be removed entirely or refitted as required. Four buckles run across the front hem, each one functional and original. A half belt sits across the rear with its own buckle adjusters, allowing the back of the jacket to be drawn in independently of the front. This is a level of considered engineering that speaks to how seriously BWS approached the problem of fit at speed.

The leather is a smooth cowhide in deep forest green, supple and exceptionally well preserved. There is no fading anywhere on this jacket. Whoever owned this piece looked after it with care, and it shows. The surface retains its original depth of colour throughout, with only the lightest surface wear consistent with occasional use rather than hard daily riding.

The interior is lined in dark green cotton moleskin throughout. The lining carries some light marks and general wear consistent with its age, all visible in the photographs, but nothing that affects the structure or wearability of the jacket. A leather-bound internal chest pocket is present and functional.

This jacket is rare not only for its specification and condition but for its size. Cut to a 48" chest, it is one of very few examples of this type available in a larger size. Jackets of this quality and detail in XXL almost never come to market.

Like all German Motorrad jackets of this period, this was designed and cut to be worn close to the body on the bike. The fit is intentionally snug when standing — this is correct and as intended. On the machine it sits and moves exactly as it should.

The jacket has been cleaned in house and given a light dressing to protect the hide without altering its surface character. All zips have been refurbished and lubricated in the workshop and now run correctly. The history is in the leather itself.

Key Details

• 1950s German Motorrad motorcycle jacket by BWS Lederbekleidung
• Original BWS Lederbekleidung label present and legible
• Rare large size, cut to a 48" chest, XXL
• Smooth cowhide in deep forest green
• Exceptional condition throughout, no fading, original colour retained
• Asymmetric front zip, original Zipp hardware throughout
• Red zip tape to all closures, entirely intact and uncorroded
• Two angled chest zip pockets, original Zipp hardware
• Two lower waist zip pockets, original Zipp hardware
• Cuff zips to both sleeves, original Zipp hardware
• Braided single-tone green leather epaulettes, dome stud termination
• Elaborate quilted fan-pattern shoulder and sleeve panels
• Red piping to all major seams and panel edges throughout
• Removable full waist belt, zip-attached at both sides
• Four buckles to front hem, all original and functional
• Half belt to rear with buckle adjusters, original and functional
• Dark green cotton moleskin interior lining, present throughout
• Light marks and general wear to interior lining, consistent with age, photographed
• Leather-bound internal chest pocket
• All seams tight, structure completely sound
• All zips refurbished and lubricated in house, operating correctly
• Cleaned and lightly conditioned in house

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 25"
• Shoulders (seam to seam): 21"
• Sleeve length (underarm seam to cuff): 19"
• Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff): 27"
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 26"

Best suited to a 48" chest. Like all German Motorrad jackets of this period this was designed to be worn close to the body on the bike. Please compare against the measurements above before purchasing.