Vintage 1950s German Cowhide Leather Motorrad Motorcycle Jacket

An early 1950s black leather motorcycle jacket by Elsöber Lederkleidung, a southwest German manufacturer producing civilian and motorcycling garments in the postwar decades. The label reads Lederkleidung · Fabrikation · Direktverkauf · Versand, indicating in-house manufacture and direct sale with postal dispatch, and describes the company as a leading enterprise of its kind. The construction, hardware and silhouette place this example firmly within a period when German civilian motorcycle culture was rebuilding rapidly and demand for well-made riding jackets was high.

The front closes on an asymmetric zip running left to right in the classic Motorrad tradition, with a secondary chest zip set into the right facing panel. This configuration allows for adjustable ventilation and ease of movement when riding. The zip pulls are marked Ruhr, a West German manufacturer of the period, with the characteristic broad shield-shaped pull. The remaining zips carry brass-coloured teeth consistent with early postwar German production. A wide pointed collar sits open at the neck, finished in matching leather to the underside. Two angled zip pockets sit at the lower front, positioned for gloved access, while cuff zips run to both sleeves at the outer wrist. Vertical seam detailing runs through the chest and continues across the back, giving the jacket its structured shape without unnecessary hardware.

The waist is finished with a broad integral belt and a plain rectangular buckle marked Gutos, a West German hardware manufacturer whose fittings appear across leather goods of the period. It draws the jacket in at the waist and provides additional protection when worn on the bike.

The lining is a mustard, brown and grey cotton flannel tartan, with a lighter plain weave used through the sleeves. The Elsöber label is sewn directly into the body lining and remains present and clearly legible.

The leather is a heavy, firm cowhide, originally dyed black. Over time, wear has drawn variation through the surface. The front panels and belt retain good depth, while the shoulders, sleeve heads and seam edges show dry wear with brown undertones and a slight tonal shift in certain light. The back panel holds more of its original colour. This is consistent with long use and typical of well-tanned hides of the period.

The structure is sound throughout. All seams are secure and all zips function as intended. The original zips have been retained and carefully serviced in the workshop to ensure smooth operation while preserving their original components. The jacket has been cleaned in house and lightly conditioned to support the leather while maintaining its natural surface and character.

Key Details

• Early 1950s West German leather motorcycle jacket by Elsöber Lederkleidung
• Original Elsöber label present and legible
• Heavy cowhide, originally black with natural brown undertone patina
• Asymmetric front zip closure with Ruhr-marked pulls
• Secondary chest zip to right facing panel
• Wide pointed collar
• Integral waist belt with Gutos-marked buckle
• Two angled lower front zip pockets
• Cuff zips to both sleeves
• Cotton flannel tartan body lining
• Plain weave sleeve lining
• Original zips retained and serviced for smooth operation
• Structure sound throughout
• Cleaned and lightly conditioned in house

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 19.75"
• Shoulders (seam to seam): 16"
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 16"
• Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff): 23"
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 21.5"

Best suited to a 36" chest (XS). Like most German Motorrad jackets of the period, this was cut to sit close to the body when worn on the bike. Please compare against the measurements above before purchasing.