French Utility Horsehide Leather Workwear Jacket, Late 1930s to 1940s

This jacket was made to be worn hard and kept going, shaped by use rather than decoration. Jackets of this type were relied upon in environments where protection mattered more than appearance, worn for work, cycling, and motor transport in all weather and often for long hours outdoors. In the years surrounding the Second World War, garments like this formed part of everyday working life, adapting over time to wind, rain, heat, and repeated physical use rather than occasional wear.

The cut is balanced and practical, sitting at a mid length that provides coverage without restricting movement. It falls naturally at the waist and allows ease through the body, suited to riding, walking, and manual work. The front closes with a button fastening, supported by zippered handwarmer pockets fitted with Swiss-made Riri zips. Two chest pockets with buttoned flaps sit high on the body, keeping contents secure and accessible. Inside the sleeves, moleskin storm cuffs help seal out wind, while the interior is fully lined in moleskin, a durable and breathable lining material commonly used in French workwear to cope with changing conditions throughout the day. The collar remains compact and functional, designed to sit comfortably whether open or fastened.

The leather is heavy, vegetable-tanned, and consistent with work-grade horsehide used in European utility garments of the late 1930s and 1940s. The back panel remains taut and supportive, having seen less repeated flex, while the front panels, particularly the right lower section, have softened significantly through decades of handling, movement, and contact with tools, belts, or equipment. The sleeves retain good firmness overall, confirming natural wear rather than uniform softening. This pattern reflects long-term, real-world use in demanding environments, where garments aged according to how they were worn rather than how they were stored.

Evidence of this working life remains visible. The right arm shows signs of historical heat exposure, resulting in slight contouring to the leather. Marks are also present at the underarms, consistent with prolonged wear during physical labour. The buttons have been replaced during the jacket’s life, and neat hand-stitching is present along the lower hem, carried out gradually over the years as part of routine maintenance. The stitching is tidy and functional, adding to the jacket’s story rather than detracting from it. These details do not affect the structure or wearability of the garment.

When recovered, the leather was completely dried out through age and long storage. It has since been specialist cleaned and carefully conditioned using our in-house workshop blends to feed the leather and restore suppleness, while preserving the original surface, patina, and structure. No unnecessary repairs or replacements have been carried out.

This is a garment shaped by work, environment, and time. Maintained to remain functional and worn until it earned its character, it remains fully wearable today and carries the quiet authority of a jacket that was relied upon, not styled.

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

Chest (armpit to armpit): 22"
Shoulders (seam to seam): 19"
Sleeve length (shoulder to cuff): 29"
Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 22"
Back length (collar seam to hem): 29"

Best suited to a 40 regular chest, long arms. Please compare these measurements with a similar jacket for best fit.