1930s French M1929 Noël Cuir Leather Flying Coat – Armée de l’Air

A substantial original French M1929 leather flying coat, dating from the 1930s and retaining its original Noël Cuir woven label, marked “Marque Déposée” with a Paris 20e address. Exceptionally substantial in both construction and appearance, this is an impressive surviving example of inter-war French aviation clothing, distinguished by its heavyweight leather, checked wool lining and extraordinary naturally developed patina.

The M1929 belongs to an important generation of protective flying clothing developed during the inter-war period, when military aircrew operated in aircraft offering comparatively little protection from wind and cold. Long leather coats provided a durable outer barrier, while substantial wool linings supplied the insulation required for prolonged exposure in the air.

The pattern also has an interesting connection with Polish aviation history. Period photographs document French M1929-type leather flying coats being worn by Polish airmen in France during 1939 and 1940, following the reorganisation of Polish aviation personnel on French soil. There is no known individual provenance connecting this particular coat with a Polish airman, but it is an original example of the same French flying-coat pattern documented in their use during this significant early chapter of the Second World War.

The leather is unquestionably the defining feature of this example. Exceptionally substantial brown hides retain considerable body and structure while having softened naturally through approximately nine decades of wear. The original darker finish has developed into deep chocolate, tobacco and russet tones, particularly across the shoulders, sleeves, collar, belt and other areas exposed to repeated movement and contact. Deep creasing, variations in grain and natural surface wear give the leather a character that cannot be convincingly reproduced artificially.

Construction is purposeful throughout. The long overlapping front is secured by leather-covered buttons and framed by broad notched lapels, with distinctive parallel stitched detailing across the upper chest. A buttoned flap pocket sits high on the chest, while two large hand pockets are incorporated discreetly into the lower body.

A full leather belt passes around the waist through substantial belt loops and closes with its original metal buckle. Leather adjustment straps at the cuffs allow the sleeves to be drawn closer around the wrists. Beneath these are internal wrist storm cuffs, providing additional protection against draughts, while underarm vents introduce a degree of ventilation into what is otherwise an exceptionally substantial garment.

The shoulder construction employs long sweeping seams rather than a conventional sharply defined shoulder, allowing the heavy leather to fall naturally through the upper body and contributing to the coat's broad protective silhouette. From the rear, large uninterrupted expanses of leather give the garment much of its imposing presence.

Inside, the coat retains a substantial cream, brown and grey checked wool lining. Beneath the internal chest pocket is the original Noël Cuir woven manufacturer's label, carrying the “Marque Déposée” wording and Paris 20e address. Its survival alongside the leather-covered buttons, waist belt, buckle, cuff adjusters and storm cuffs makes this an especially complete example.

Approximately nine decades have transformed the original leather surface into a complex landscape of folds, grain, abrasions and changing brown tones. These signs of age have deliberately been preserved rather than disguised.

The history is in the leather itself.

Condition & Preservation

Very good vintage condition for an original leather flying coat of this age. The heavyweight leather remains strong, supple and fully wearable, with extensive age-related surface wear consistent with genuine use.

The darker original finish has naturally worn in areas to reveal warmer tobacco and russet tones beneath, particularly across the shoulders, sleeves, collar, belt and exposed edges. Deep creasing, scratches, scuffs, surface marks and tonal variation are present throughout and form an important part of the coat's character.

The original buttons, full waist belt, original metal buckle, belt loops and leather cuff adjustment straps remain present. The internal wrist storm cuffs and underarm vents are also retained.

Internally, the cream, brown and grey checked wool lining remains well preserved for its age, with age-related marks and wear consistent with an original garment of this period. The original Noël Cuir woven manufacturer's label remains present and legible beneath the internal chest pocket, retaining its “Marque Déposée” marking and Paris 20e address.

The coat has been specialist cleaned and carefully conditioned in-house using our own workshop leather-care blends, nourishing the leather while preserving its original surface, patina and tonal variation.

No attempt has been made to recolour areas of natural finish loss or artificially disguise the character acquired over its long life.

Please study the detailed photographs, which form an important part of the description and show the overall condition closely.

Key Identifying Features

• Original French M1929 leather flying coat
• Dating from the 1930s
• French military aviation / Armée de l’Air pattern
• Pattern documented in wear by Polish airmen in France during 1939 and 1940
• Original Noël Cuir woven manufacturer's label
• “Marque Déposée” marking with Paris 20e address
• Exceptionally substantial brown leather
• Deep chocolate, tobacco and russet colouring
• Extensive naturally developed patina
• Long protective flying-coat silhouette
• Overlapping buttoned front
• Original buttons
• Broad notched lapels
• Parallel stitched upper-chest detailing
• Buttoned flap chest pocket
• Two lower hand pockets
• Full leather waist belt with original metal buckle
• Substantial leather belt loops
• Leather cuff adjustment straps
• Internal wrist storm cuffs
• Underarm vents
• Long sweeping shoulder construction
• Heavy cream, brown and grey checked wool lining
• Internal chest pocket
• Specialist cleaned and conditioned in-house
• Strong, supple and fully wearable leather

Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)

• Chest (armpit to armpit): 23.5"
• Shoulders (approximate): 19"
• Raglan sleeve length (neck to cuff): 31.5"
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 18.5"
• Back length (collar seam to hem): 35"

Best suited to approximately a 43" chest for a comfortable fit. Please compare the measurements with a similar garment you own to ensure the best fit.