This rare French military overcoat from the late 1930s–1940s represents one of the most distinctive forms of European leather tailoring from the pre-war and wartime era. Issued to officers and gendarmerie, coats of this type were designed to endure prolonged exposure to the elements while maintaining a sense of refinement in their cut and finish.
The outer shell is crafted from heavyweight horsehide, originally selected for its natural weather resistance and long service life. Decades of wear have transformed the surface into something extraordinary: a supple hide with a deep reddish-brown patina, tonal variation, and softened creasing that cannot be replicated in modern reproductions. The grain remains tight and robust, while the surface carries a low, natural sheen—the unmistakable signature of authentic, aged horsehide.
The interior reveals what sets this example apart: a full wool lining in rich brown, providing substantial insulation for mounted and motorised troops in cold conditions. This combination of horsehide exterior and wool interior was a premium construction, rarely surviving intact. Together they create a garment that is as functional as it is imposing.
Functional design details include two flapped chest pockets, slash handwarmer pockets, wide lapels, and adjustable cuff straps. At the rear, a half-belt reinforces the silhouette. Subtle evidence of age—such as surface wear at the collar and hand-finished stitching at stress points—attests to the coat’s long service history while adding to its individuality.
This garment has been professionally cleaned and conditioned using specialist processes developed for historic leather. The horsehide retains its integrity, flexibility, and patina, while the wool lining remains intact and in excellent order. Structurally sound and fully wearable, it stands as a rare survivor of French wartime craftsmanship.
Garment Measurements (Laid Flat)
Chest (pit to pit): 26 inch
Shoulders (seam to seam): 22 inch
Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff): 28 inch
Back length (collar seam to hem): 41.5 inch
A one-of-a-kind example of French military leatherwork—robust, distinctive, and preserved with care. This overcoat represents not only practical wartime tailoring but also the enduring beauty of horsehide matured over eight decades.
